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A Light in fashion

Lisbon has presented the collections of some of the most renowned names of the national fashion realm, in the 49th edition of Moda Lisboa. The beauty of Pavilhão Carlos Lopes was the setting chosen to give visibility to what the author and commercial brands have picked for the Spring-Summer of 2018. There was a good turnout, comprised by ‘opinion makers’ and agents of interest, such as journalists, producers, stylists, editors, directors of magazines dedicated to the sector.

First of all, the organization of Moda Lisboa should be emphasized, since they keep making a bet on the talent that is thought and conceived in Portugal, a merit gained by a route that has taken more than two decades already, something absolutely crucial to boosting our fashion. Regardless if there is a properly oiled engine for the strategy and establishment of the business, the truth is that this platform is deemed necessary for the city and for the sector’s professionals.

The Luz edition was structured on an interesting array of proposals, some better advocated than others. One should emphasize the collections by Kolovrat, Valentim Quaresma, Ricardo Preto, David Ferreira, Nuno Gama, Ricardo Andrez, Aleksandar Protic, Eureka, Nair Xavier, Luís Carvalho, Mustra, Olga Noronha and Filipe Faísca. These stylists are able to prove that there is talent and hope for the Portuguese fashion, knowing beforehand that some of the aforementioned works have a consubstantiated quality, and there are others who have carried out something better, or have yet to achieve the adequate requirements from a creative and production point of view. Sometimes, the fault lies on how frail the materials and the confection are, which curbs the final potential of the projects that deserve to continue to exist. We know, beyond any doubt, that the national audience has to get closer to the product, whilst stopping to be a mere spectator and becoming a consumer as well. To maximize this convergence, there has to be a greater pride in wearing, without any resentment, what is Portuguese, one has to wear it, buy t, show it. This convergence will then flourish the business, which will help the production even more and, in some cases, will ease the streamlining of prices, which, in many cases, are a factor of estrangement between the product and the consumer.

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  • Moda Lisboa

The collections SS 2018 intend to appeal to the most alternative and traditional tastes. The approach between tradition and trends was clearly shown, retrieving the notion that the trademark of national stylists and designers is capable of standing among the majority things from broad, given that it looks for a uniqueness, based on a relationship between a certain form of modernity in fashion and inspirational leitmotifs. The starting point for most collections is the ‘streetwear’, which is worked depending on the concept and the interpretive and creative experience of each mentor of the brands that are present. Sometimes, what one sees in the ‘runway’ is not the final form, rather a suggestion of one of the many ways of dressing or wearing shoes. It is recommended, to someone who watches a fashion show, some sort of distancing, few will be those that will faithfully adopt what they saw. The beauty and the success of each show are based on the success achieved by those who are at the backstage, and these are the make-up artists and hairdressers. The proposals of SS 2018 in terms of international make-up were clearly evident in the several runway shows. “Listening to what the designer or the stylist wants is crucial, nonetheless there is always a suggestion when we realize that we can perfect the initial idea. The truth is that there are always solutions, there always conversations, reunions and, throughout the years, a vital synergy is promoted between all parties. The audience starts to understand that the shows presented encompass all the ingredients hinted by international trends”, António Rosa explains to Umbigo magazine, accountable for the make-up staff of Moda Lisboa.

As it happened with past editions, the Wonder Room was present with several brands from different segments, promoting once again valuable and differentiated ideas: Fluo Bags, Ironia, Carolina Curado, Alfamarama, Antiga Barbearia de Bairro, Boon, Le Mot, Vera Manzoni, Selva, Joana Ribeiro Joalharia, among others.

The 50th edition takes place in March 2018, with proposals for the Fall-Winter collection.

José Rui Pardal Pina (n. 1988) grew up in Campo Maior and studied in the grouping of Arts in Elvas. He earned a master's degree in architecture from I.S.T. in 2012. He completed the admission to order and the internship in António Barreiros Ferreira - Tetractys Arquitectos. In 2016 he joined the Postgraduate Course in Art Curation at FCSH-UNL and began to collaborate in the Umbigo magazine. He is interested in art, cinema, politics, literature, fashion, architecture, decoration...

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